Textile and Knitwear Designer: Jesscia Leclere

Whilst having a little flick around pinterest today I came across this amazing knitwear designer. Her collection has reminded me of the real aspect of 'Design'. Every single feature of her clothing is really considered and precise meaning that all aspects of the garment works together to create an amazing overall look. I also love the tactile/3dimensional aspects of her work, very unique and striking. Made with ultimate refinement and sophistication, her work is truely beautiful!

Check out her full collection here:

http://www.jessicaleclere.com/#/graduate-collection/4565115758

Paper pleats

Paper Pleats; the initial experiments....

 

Thinking about how I can create texture within a fabric surface I am starting with pleating. This technique is used by tailors to help create shapes and movement within garments and so I think it is a good starting point. I have initially pleated paper just to get a quick idea of different types of pleats and how they can be created. Here are the pictures below:

 

 All experiments

 

 

Accordion pleats

 

Box pleats

 

 

 

Knife Pleats                                        Scrunching

 

I love this last image, it really shows off the 3D qualities of all the samples. Each one is quite different, creating very different outcomes. I think my next move will have to be to try some of these in fabric so see if they are still as scultural using a softer material.

Examples of Fabric manipulation

 

This montage of fabric manipulation is a stunning example of how to create form within a fabric surface. A very inspirational image that demonstrates that pleating is not the only option when it comes to creating 3D forms in fabric and with some imagination and experimentation it is possible to create something a little more intricate and interesting.

 

Pleats inspiration....

Issey Miyake, Pleats Please:
How can I research into pleats without mentioning the amazing Pleats Please from Issey Miyake?!
This stunning work is ingenius, having been produced on a large roll as one piece of fabric which the customer themselves can cut and style to their own tastes, cutting down the seam which is woven together as one layer of fabric whereas the main body of the garment is woven in double layer, a truely innovative use of weaving technology and stretch fabric which pleats, beautiful!

 

 

This page on the contemporary textile art, Anne Griffiths, demonstrates the different types of pleating and how to categorise these, it really covers all the basics of pleating:
http://www.pocketmouse.co.uk/cgs3pg.php


Here is a really simple video from youtube which demonstrates a really easy way to create pleats in fabric lengths:

My love of Pleats!!!

Pleats, beautiful pleats. Im not sure what it is that originally made me fall in love with pleating but I am now absolutely obsessed. In my first year at Uni during my first ever weaving project my tutor introduced me to woven pleats and I was totally amazed that it was actually possible to weave such a sculptoral 3d effect in a piece of fabric, which to me opened up a whole new relm to fabric and opened the door not only to pleating but to the word of weaving in 3D.

This is one of my hand woven pleated lengths which I produced whilst at Uni:

 

and my Jacquard woven scarf length:

Since graduating though I have found that I have been so busy trying to find my way, find my own way of working and produce work that people will want to buy that I have completely lost this exciting element to my work. I do love my hand dyed fabrics but I have always been of the opinion that fabrics are so much more exciting in 3D so guess what....its back...the heavily textured, 3D and scultural form that can be produced by pleating! I can't wait to get started!

Shibori experiments

I am trying to perfect my dyeing techniques so have decided to experiment with methods of creating pattern using buttons: